2020 was the stuff of nightmares. Amidst a global pandemic and lockdowns, travel was the last thing on our agenda. Needless to say, the year-end for me was marked by baking cookies and spending considerable amount of time in front of the laptop to look up recipes for cookies. 3 years back though, my life sounded a little less tragic. It was the time I took my first solo trip and travel for me changed in ways more than one.
The idea for this solo trip emerged in a hotel room in Leh, after I realized how well I had crafted the itinerary for our Ladakh trip. Even though I was 21, I still belonged to a brown family and as is customary, you need permission from your parents to do something drastic like taking a solo trip. My mother was aware of my love for travel, but she was scared to let me out of her protective cocoon to be by myself on the Indian streets. As a safe bet and after repeated readings of Shivya’s Auroville diaries, I finally decided to spend the Christmas week in Pondicherry and later, Auroville. Initially, it seemed like a challenge I wanted to successfully execute. As days passed, it became more of an adrenaline rush – researching places and activities that I would not feel guilty spending money on. And then the D-day arrived. A flight to Chennai and pulling my suitcase through a garbage dump later, I was finally on board to begin this new adventure.
For those first-timers eager to jump into the solo-traveler bandwagon, let me share some wisdom with you. Here are a few learnings from my first solo trip.
1. Work on your fear, or else you might be contemplating death by a pack of dogs
It is very natural to have some fears when you sign up for a solo trip the first time. Your family is concerned about your safety (as you should be too). You are concerned about not forgetting your bag containing your passport (or is it just me)? Your significant other is concerned if you will leave them after the new self-love you experience (can say that’s a legit one). But my biggest fear was the possibility of getting bitten by dogs.
You see, when you’ve been chased by a dog, you no longer find them cute and adorable. They scare the s#?t out of you and you want to avoid them at every possible opportunity. However, in India, stray dogs are everywhere and chances are you will end up encountering them at some point or the other. Daytimes are easier but things got really tough when I had to walk back to my hostel through a dark alley. Waiting for me was a pack of 6 dogs, barking their hearts out. If it weren’t for the magical appearance of a kind gentleman on the bike as my messiah, I would not have any other experiences to pen down except taking rabies shots.
So, if you don’t want to meet the same situation as me, avoid the dark. Or be a dog lover. Either works.
Quick update: I no longer hate dogs. I have even stroked a few.
2. Wake up early if you want to get the freshest bakeries and good photographs
If you ask my mother to list down my problematic traits, one that will feature in the top 5 is my inability to be an early riser. But gluttony and introverted nature get the best of me during my travels. The need to take photos at golden hour and the fresh smell of bakeries are enough to get the sloath bear in me up and ready by sunrise.
Pondicherry used to be a French Colony before it got integrated into India in 1954. The French Quarters, or White Town as is popularly called is dotted with vintage French colonial style houses – bright, colourful and majestic. The best time to bike around those streets is the early hours of the morning, when people haven’t started crowding. And when hungry, here’s a list of my favourite breakfast places:
- The Baker’s Cafe.
- Bread & Chocolate inside Auroville (opens a little later).
- Auroville Bakery inside Auroville
3. Having a driver's license helps in freely moving around. If not, be prepared to walk or hitchhike
As much as I loved walking around, I really regretted not being tall enough to have a bike my size, or not knowing how to ride a scooter. Pondicherry is the perfect place to explore on those 2 vehicles. In fact, there are bike tours arranged by different companies in the morning to show you around. If you have strong leg muscles and don’t find getting lost once in a while, explore on foot, stop at roadside stops for meals and often you’ll find yourself beyond the French Quarters, into the Muslim or Tamil neighbourhoods.
Life became much easier when I was in Auroville. There are other mediums of transport for the richer folks – such as autos and cabs, but you better have your bargaining skills spot on.
How to get from one place to another in Auroville?
Hitchhike!
The people I came across during my time in Auroville are some of the warmest and nicest people who went out of their way to drop me off at random places on the map. And while they did so, they chatted up about me as a young solo female traveler, or told me about life in Auroville. Of course, be sure to use your intuitions while boarding any scooter or car, especially after dark. (Infact, it is highly recommended to return to your place of stay before sunset.)
4. Don't leave your itinerary so open-ended that you have no place to spend your New Year's at.
On 30th December, at 8.45 p.m, I caught the 9.30 p.m bus to Bangalore because my hotel reservation for the following night had got cancelled at the last minute, leaving me homeless for New Year’s Eve. My initial plan to drag around my suitcase around the Pondicherry Rock Beach was admittedly, not foolproof. In a pre-Covid area, it was also extremely difficult to get a last-minute booking on the last day of the year, especially if it was on a weekend.
I knew better than to drink and get wasted by myself as a single female traveler. So I decided to do that in the company of some friends, so they could ensure my safety (and clean up after me). So, unless you have good friends nearby who welcome you into their homes out of sympathy, I suggest that you take more precautions and avoid putting yourself in such a situation. Keeping some extra money in such a scenario comes in handy. Thankfully, this was Pondicherry with easy access to transport around, but you won’t get this lucky if you were say, in the mountains.
5. Be open to unexpected invites, especially if it promises bonfire.
While I was roaming around the French Quarters of Pondicherry, someone offered to go along with me so we could click each others’ pictures and then mysteriously appeared in every place I would go to. Those situations are the reasons you should carry pepper spray or a military knife (problems of being a female, you see).
However, if you were roaming around aimlessly in search of the African Pavillion in Auroville and someone told you to come by in the evening to participate in the bonfire, I think you should go for it. I did, and it was totally worth it. It was the last Thursday of the year, so the African drums were extra loud and the crowd was extra energetic. So much so that I stayed back too late and ultimately ended up navigating dark Auroville roads with a South African backpacker to reach my guest-house safely. It’s always safer to arrange a form of transport and not rely on others’ benevolence.
6. Organic vegan food can surpass meaty meals, especially if fresh from the garden
I can’t believe there would come a day when a meat-lover like me would say this, but I mean it 100%. You cannot..cannot beat the goodness of fresh food right out of the garden.
Solitude Farm
The Solitude Farm is one of the many places in Auroville that offer that, and in my humble opinion, it was the best. Krishna Mckenzie had come to Auroville in the 1990s and made it his home. He started practising the teachings of Masonubu Fukoaka and developed natural farming and permaculture. To sustain themselves financially, they also do a service to people by serving excellent mid-day meals with his secret ingredients.
The lunch menu changes every day, so you’re always in for a surprise! For vegan enthusiasts, there’s also opportunities to volunteer at the farm and be a more integral part of Auroville.
7. Human connections are an essential part of solo travel
Let me talk of 3 different episodes.
- Many days, I would find myself walking by the window that belonged to a Boys Home just beside the Dumas Church. And two out of three days, I would be greeted with some warm smiles. They barely understood my language, and me theirs, but who said communication needs language? So, while they tried to shoo me off the first day for being an intruder with a camera, they would wave at me the next day, recognizing me. The next day, incidentally, was Christmas, and as per my morning ritual, I peeped in a bit to greet them. The next thing I knew, they asked me to come closer, and all of a sudden, a number of them had started dancing! Twisting and turning their little bodies, jumping around, doing somersaults and cartwheels and what not!
- The Rock Beach of Pondicherry is a great place to sit down on the rocks or side bank and let your hair down. If you have been around India, you know the abundance of child beggars. One such little girl came to me and asked for money. Now I don’t believe in giving these kids money, since it rarely ends up in their hands. So I asked her what she would do with the money, and she said ice-cream. It was Christmas Eve, and I needed some company. So I decided to take her to the Gelato shop right across the street. While we approached the door, her brothers came running, not wanting to be left out. Don’t you think their smiles were 10 times worth the money I spent?
- Solitude Farm wasn’t so lonely after all. I arrived well before lunchtime and found another lady sitting on the swing by herself, looking through what seemed like a journal. A couple of hours later, we were hitchhiking at the back of a mini truck and learning about the restoration of an entire forest in Pitchandikulam. We also ended up going to the Sadhana Forest together, learning about another their attempts at water conservation and forest restoration and also how they don’t even let their poop go to waste.
8. Don't let your beliefs stop you from having an experience
I have been an atheist for the last 6 years now. That hasn’t stopped me from celebrating the cultural aspect of Durga Pujo or enjoying the Christmas decorations at Park Street or appreciating the art and architecture of old temples and churches. Pondicherry, due to its French influences, houses a considerable number of Christians. Needless to say, Christmas is a time for celebration for them and Christmas Eve sees a Christmas Mass in most churches. Since I had never participated in anything of the sort, I went in as one of the heads tiptoeing to see what’s happening in the front. Even though the readings were in Tamil and French, the atmosphere was worth the auto ride back.
Auroville, on the other hand, is a spiritual place. I reject spirituality just as much as I reject religion. But I wanted to experience the calm of the Matrimandir nonetheless. You know how some experiences are beyond words? Once you’re guided into the inner chamber of the Matrimandir, there is pin-drop silence and a radiant crystal at the top also reflecting the sunlight. For those wanting to practice meditation, I cannot think of a better place. Even in 15 minutes, you come out a different person – it’s that humbling.
How to visit the inside of the Matrimandir Chamber?
While it is possible to see the Matrimandir from a viewing point outside (remember all the photos you see of Auroville with the golden globe?), you need a pass to get inside the actual chamber. In pre-Covid times, it was mandatory to get an appointment from the Visitor’s centre. The tickets sell out pretty quickly, so make sure you’re there 10-15 minutes before the counter opens. The inside chamber is currently closed, as per the website.
9. Learn to be shameless if you want at least some pictures taken
If you have to maintain an Instagram handle, you gotta keep those pictures coming. I didn’t mean to share stories every step of the way, but I also wanted to preserve *some* memories. That included some decent pictures beyond selfies. As a social introvert, I have found it increasingly hard to ask people to click my photos. So one of the things I had to work on during this trip was to be bold enough to go upto people up and ask them to click my pictures.
More often than not, they won’t frame you right or click blurry or out-of-focus pictures but you gotta be patient or ask multiple people if you want that click. If you meet fellow travelers, a photo exchange is usually easier. Another good trick is to find a couple or group who want their photo taken together, and you ask them to take yours in exchange. Otherwise, you can always make others your muse (with permission of course). If you don’t care much for pictures though, you can always come back with experiences that are added to the bigger experience of life.
10. It's okay to feel a little lonely at times - doesn't mean you're not enjoying the experience
Finally, solo travel is not all fun and roses. There are times when you will feel too lonely. There are times when you’d rather have company (example: while having dinner alone on Christmas). There are times you will feel bored or scared or lost. There will be difficulties and challenges with nobody by your side to help you out. Depending on your choices, there might be places with no wifi or phone signal.
You gotta remember that traveling solo is just another experience and if you didn’t enjoy it, you needn’t come back to it. If you did, however, you are invincible now!
Interesting. Uncertainties make life more enjoyable. I can feel the pain you are experiencing locked up for the past one year.
That’s why I’m glad to have you around ^_^
Dear Shreya
Such a nice write up, loved it😍!
I am very impressed by your writing skills as well as by your free spirit…yes, you are invincible, with the world at your fingertips if you so desire…
Hopefully, with the triumph of biomedical research currently, we will be able to get out of the infinite Covid 19 corridor sooner than later, and start exploring the world, with new ideals and vision, with Hindsight 2020 guiding us in our lives.
Kudos for a sharing a great experience 💕.
Thank you for your kind words 🙂
These are all great tips! We’re on the same wavelength, I think. (Though I must say – packs of defensive stray dogs are one of the things I fear most in my solo travels.) I hope we can meet one day somewhere on the road and enjoy a drink or three without having to worry about getting wasted on our own as solo women 😉
It means so much that you commented and relate to the tips (especially the one on dogs!) Hopefully, once Covid is over, we can go back to worrying about other safety issues (sigh!)
The incredible journey of travel within in this journey out of solitude- in solo…… fantastic….. keep it up and wish you a very happy new year….🌷
Happy new year to you too! And it indeed is an incredible journey!
I always love to go through your write-ups! Carry on the good show! it is one of the best ways to open yourself to the world at large!
That’s the idea 🙂
Reminded me of the two solo trips I had made to Pondicherry few years back and the new friends I made and the night view of the beach along with few stories of people being swept away in it’s currents and the slow sip of the coffee by the beach.
Found your take on spirituality interesting. I believe you actually discovered the true essence of spirituality in that calmness that you were seeking.
Spirituality in it’s essence means becoming comfortable with travelling solo through one’s life’s journey.
Well, from my understanding of it, it’s also connecting with greater consciousness and believing in it. I like to stay grounded in that aspect and solo travel needed is a step towards becoming comfortable with self.
From your description, it certainly seems you enjoyed your time in Pondicherry! The beach is lovely, indeed. Next time, you can try to go to Auroville, because it is an incredible place inside the country.
[…] need to enjoy the tea when you prefer coffee, though? Let me be upfront about some situations I have faced when traveling solo, and you might as […]
Lucid informative
Keep writing & traveling
Nothing is more gratifying than seeing the world & meeting people & places & of course penning it down
You can make writing your passion and profession both.
Thank you 🙂 It is definitely one of the underrated pleasures of life.
Shreya, as usual you made us a part of your journey,…. along the dark alleys, by the sea beach, experiencing the serenity inside the Matrimandir, while the fresh bakery enchanted our olfactory senses. Wish you all the best for a lot more journeys ahead and hope that each one opens up a new world for you. Love always and stay safe.❤️
Glad you can visualize them through my humble words 🙂